I spotted this intricate and snakey big vase on display at Hotel El Minzah in Tangier. The blue mosaic tiled wall behind it was an eye catching backdrop for this antique urn. Fussy porcelain usually holds no appeal for me but the I loved the snake encrusted handles and the little viper faces.
I passed a Moroccan man waiting on a corner this morning with a young and joyful golden Labrador, off lead, wearing a red collar. A dog in a collar is a most unusual sight, in fact, I think it is a first for me in eighteen months. I patted and chatted with the beautiful dog and it's owner. The owner spoke some English then I heard him tell the dog to "sit". I was so surprised to hear an English command given. I continued on my errand and passed them again shortly. I patted the dog some more and asked the man why the dog understood English words. He said it lived with him and a Swiss girl and that it was a clever breed of dog. Whilst it was a very very happy encounter for me I only wished the puppy was on a lead. The mayhem of the medina is no place for any dog to be off lead, no matter how clever.
I did very little shopping on this trip. And yes, truly unusual for me, but I was too busy taking photos of the incredible colours and sights to think about making purchases. Most of what is on offer in the souks in Tangier is available to me in Marrakech so retail therapy was not such a priority this trip.
Tangier has about 1.5 million people, maybe less, so it's not a big city. It's a small and very interesting city. The old medina is enclosed by 15th century ramparts. The new city is full of white apartment blocks. The seaport is a vital and busy link with cargo ships, cruise liners, fishing boats and big ferries to-ing and fro-ing. Fishing and the textile industry followed by tourism are the main Tangerine economic interests. What a pity It's such a long trip from Marrakech. I chose to fly with a stop in Casablanca. The boring hanging around in the transit lounge was longer than the flights on either side of it. The other alternative is a slow and lengthy ten hour plus train trip. There is a direct night train and a bunk in a cabine of four can be reserved. The day train involves a change of trains halfway, lugging luggage and scrambling aboard before the whistle blows. No thanks to the train unless I have too ! I loved Tangier and I am so happy I had to chance to see a very different Moroccan city.
It would appear that Tangier is not as touristy a destination as Morocco except in the summer months. June, July and August sees flocks of Moroccan families plus European visitors taking a beach vacation. The beach is the draw card it seems and not the historic Kasbah and medina. Cruise ships do come into the port disgorging passengers but they wander the corniche and then head back to their cabins. I saw barely a tourist and no big tour groups on the day I spent with a guide. The hilly and cobbled streets were quiet and calm, no mopeds, no donkeys and no harassment.
You certainly get the Spanish feel in this part of Morocco. After all there is only 20 miles by sea between the two countries, a short 35 minute trip on the Hovercraft or a more stomach churning ninety minutes by slow car ferry. While the very typical Moroccan tagines are still served, there is tapas on every menu and a huge emphasis also on fresh fish.
Gelati pastels, primary colours and drawings adorn walls and gates and buildings. No boring beige stucco in Tangier.
L,
Photos were taken as we entered the medina heading uphill to the Kasbah. We entered through the gate that was the spot where all the rural people used to bring their produce, the ancient farmers market site ! This part of our guided walk was about four kilometres but I did not notice the length in any way. There is just too much to see and love to notice time or distance.
I will just continue my story by photographs, just to share the color, the mix of architectural styles and the snippets of local life. Just a word on the mosques, in this city I think there are 150 of them and they are made from a mixture of construction materials with many coloured tiles whereas the Marrekchi mosques are made from the local Adobe clay and are all the same reddish colour. BTW , if you are a true blue local and were/are born and bred in Tangier you are a Tangerine, not to be confused with the fruit.
Yesterday was one of those days ! A day so full of colour and adventure around every corner that
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