mosaic road

Hotel Sahrai, Fes - a sneaky peak

 

It is very new, all about the 5 star thing and very cool and quiet. My visit to this boutique hotel, Hotel Sahrai, was just for 30 minutes or so but I would guess the 50 rooms would be palatial and lovely. It has amazing panoramic views over Fes as it sits atop a steep hill with a glorious infinity pool, a Givenchy spa, 2 restaurants and many interior gardens. I was nervous to speak above a whisper as I know I can be loud and I think a noisy guffaw would have raised some eyebrows. As you drive up to the entrance you meet a swathe of fluffy pampas grass. Their snowy feathered plumes create an eye catching vista as they merge with the  creamy white of the city of Fes lying below. Even for 30 little minutes it was worth it. 

Riad Al Markan, Fes, Morocco

I have just had three nights in this very serene riad in Fes. There are well over 200 hotels and riads in this small city and this one was a good choice. It is in a safe area, parking is on hand and it is only a short walk to the Blue Gate. The 20 rooms are incredibly spacious as are all the salons and public spaces. The interior is wonderfully rich and traditional and leaves no doubt in your mind that you are deep in Morocco's heart. I was greatly appreciative of the smiling service. And I loved the swan towels. Ridiculous to focus on this but I have seen so many pictures of them and never had one to myself. I should learn to 'construct' these swans at home and could perch them jauntily along the couch !! Fes is steeped in history and should be on every itinerary. It took seven hours by train to get there but then I took a reputable {and handsome} local guide and saw and learnt so much in a short time. To stand in a medina that dates back to the sixth century is an incomparable experience .

Sunset & Shadows at Borj Sud

 

Borj Sud is a military fortress built in the sixteenth century. It was built along with it's counterpart Borj Nord to ensure that the  population and their every move  could be monitored  a la Big Brother !!! It sits high on a hill and offers a glorious panoramic view of the trio of towns that make up Fes in its'entirety, the Old Town from  roughly 859 AD, the New Town  from roughly 1276  and the New New Town built by the French. The Borj Sud is a perfect place to be when the sun is slowly sinking after a hot Fassi day of sightseeing in the Old Medina.

Breakfast for One x 2

I have just had three nights at Riad Al Makan in Fes. This morning I was on the return train  to Marrakech at breakfast time but on the other two mornings I was served a sumptuous breakfast. Way , way too much food for any singleton but luckily a thankfully hungry guide and beloved  friend joined me each day. The first morning was an array of different bread and cakes including baguettes and little bread rolls rolled in cornmeal accompanied by fresh juice, yoghurt, local jams, cream cheeses, olives and olive oil. On my second morning eggs appeared cooked in a dried beef confit then crepes drizzled in chocolate, brioche and a fruit cocktail were laid before me. No one could do this wonderful selection the justice it deserved. Even if you only manage to eat a small portion it does set you up for a solid day of sightseeing and was perfect for me when we seemed to get around to eating lunch at 4pm.

Rug Mania

Rug buying is an essential Moroccan experience for any tourist . I have never actually bought a rug but I have now witnessed the ‘scenario’ many times over. It is a lengthy procedure involving at the bare minimum these 10 steps.

1. the luring into the shop with endless pleasantries and welcoming tactics

2. the offer of copious amounts of mint tea

3. the insistent acknowledgment that it is OK to look , no buying required

4. the history of rugs and weaving explained 

5. many examples shown to demonstrate varying tribal patterns

6. anything you may look at in even a vaguely affirmative sort of way is seen as ‘open slather’, cheap shipping promised

7. many, many, many more examples of rugs rolled out 

8. any size, any colour way, any quality is offered to you at a very, very good price - promises, promises

9. more mint tea

10. let the haggling commence, it’s every man for himself

 

 

 

Woven Wonders

Her fingers moved so rapidly that I could barely gain a concept of what was happening. Luckily she knew exactly what to do and what colour to do it in although there was no instruction sheet. Her knowledge is based on sheer hardwork and repetition over many years. In Fes today I watched a young woman at a big loom creating an intricate masterpiece.  I was in a large rug store and she was upstairs silently and skilfully beavering away producing something that will probably sell for 1000's of dollars in Europe or USA. She possibly learnt this artisan skill from her mother and now can produce an authentic and beautiful Fassi carpet.

Round & Round the Mulberry Tree

I sat under a mulberry tree yesterday that is circa 200 years old. Pictures come to my mind of the many caravans of traders and shepherds with their flocks who would have rested from the midday heat in this very spot. The trunk is wonderful and the lush leafy shade expansive. I am in Fes and the old part of the city had its foundations laid in the 6th century. Under the tree now are cafes that have been built around it with their rooves/roofs taking a detour around the trunk. Much care is taken of the tree by the city 'fathers'. Surely there can be no better place for a coffee.

Surrounded by Moroccan Beauty

Today I got up in the wee small hours and took a train while still dark to Fes, a seven hour trip from Marrakech. I am having three nights at Riad Al Makan in this city which dates back to the 6th century. The riad comprises 2 old houses renovated in traditional style to create 25 rooms. The nooks and crannies in and around the many salons are museum like with wonderful artefacts on display with  intricate mosaic walls as their backdrop and a burbling fountain as background music.  So much beauty surrounds the guests along with Moroccan charm and hospitality.

 

A Shy Little Beldi Friend

Here is the beautiful little Beldi puppy I babysat recently for one afternoon. It was to be overnight but when I left her for a short while she howled and howled and that is not ideal when you live in an apartment block. So sadly I had to take her back to her ‘mother’. I carried her for 30 minutes because she was too nervous to walk.  My friend N saved her from someone dragging her onto a donkey to be taken away to a very miserable ending. She had been born on the streets of Marrakech and had lived her short life, like thousands of others, scavenging and running from cruelty. She bonded immediately with N and was the most gentle and loving little dog. But N could not keep her as her living and work situation was not pet friendly. Eventually the puppy was taken to an animal sanctuary and I just hope a wonderful family has come along and adopted her. Unfortunately this is so unlikely as people here, like the world over ,want pedigree dogs. I love the Beldi dogs with their pink noses, soft eyes and gentle natures . So if you read this and can offer a Moroccan street puppy a home just let me know  and it will be DONE.

 

Squinches & Muqarnas

 

A sqinch seems to be the square base a dome sits on and muqarnas are a three dimensional , ornamental  divisions of  the squinch interior giving it a honeycomb or stalactite effect. This look is very traditional in Islamic architecture and commonly seen in North Africa since around the tenth Century. [Probably the best ever example is the Alhambra in Spain.] Anyway the long and short of this is that recently I visited Riad Palais Sebban here in Marrakech and adored the classic interior architecture but had no idea how to describe it. Thank heavens for Wikipedia. While admiring this magnificent dome and ceiling it did occur to me that dust and cobwebs must be a huge issue. It’s not like you could just hose it down ! But it is pretty breathtaking, cleaning aside. I have a house in Melbourne with a dome in my bedroom so maybe if I return I will get a few squinches of my own.